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I have a 47-footer
and want to put in another bilge pump. Where is the best place to install
a backup pump?
B.V., via e-mail
I like to
start off any discussion of bilge pumps by sharing an image that all of
us can relate to: The world’s most efficient bilge pump is a boat
owner with a five-gallon bucket on a sinking boat.
That said, one way to
install a backup bilge pump is to place it at the same level as the primary
bilge pump with the float switch, if so equipped, higher. The float switch
should not be more than four to six inches above the primary. This way,
if the primary can’t keep up or fails, the secondary will kick in.
The other method, which
I prefer, is to have the backup pump and switch higher than the primary.
In this setup, should any debris block the operation of the primary, it
shouldn’t prevent the backup from kicking in.
When determining how
high to mount your backup pump, look at what components you need to protect
against rising water, particularly your battery box. Also, make sure your
backup pump has a higher capacity than your primary. Why? Because once
the backup is in operation, you already have too much water coming in.
Whatever bilge-pump
system you have, whether for a small boat or large, make sure it is of
the highest quality. Cheap out on this piece of equipment, and you could
put your boat on the bottom.
Careful maintenance
is also crucial, and daily checks, if possible, should be done on all
components: float switches, hoses, electrical connections, and pump housings.
Always make sure there is no debris in the bilge that can cause problems.
A plastic cage over the float switch can help. Don’t wait to inspect
or change an impeller you suspect is damaged or faulty. In fact, make
sure you have several replacements onboard at all times.
What are some suggestions
for getting a good finish with teak oil? L.K., via e-mail
Whether
you are doing a deck, rail, pulpit, or trim, first make sure the surface
is clean. That means wiping all dust and contamination off the teak with
mineral spirits. Once the surface is dry, brush on a soaking coat of teak
oil. Let that sit for about ten minutes before wiping it down with a clean,
lint-free cloth. I know of some finishers who will put that rag in a Ziploc-type
plastic bag and squeeze out all the air in order to use it again the following
day, while others will go for a new, clean, and lint-free rag. In any
case, let the teak dry for 24 hours. You should repeat the process through
five coats. This last coat should get a rub down, much like applying furniture
polish. Allow this also to dry for 24 hours.
One more tip: To keep
up the finish, you should wipe down your teak and apply a polishing coat
of teak oil about every four to six months.
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