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What
is the proper method for cleaning a flame arrestor? I.J., via e-mail
First
consider safety. When working with and around gasoline, there is always
the danger of a fire or explosion. So take whatever precautions are necessary
to prevent an accident. Shut off your battery switches, and as an added
precaution, disconnect the cables and position them to avoid contact with
the terminals. I’d even go one step further by wrapping the battery
cable ends in electrical tape to prevent an errant spark from igniting
any fumes that may be lurking. Shut off all dockside A.C. power, and remove
the plug from the dock outlet.
While
you should always follow your owner’s manual for proper flame arrestor
removal and cleaning, most units are serviced in the same manner. First
disconnect the crankcase vent hose. (Depending on your engine size, there
may be more than one hose.) Remove the nut holding the flame arrestor
and cover. On some engines, like older Volvo Penta stern drives, a clamp
may secure the flame arrestor to the air intake horn. With them you will
have to also loosen the clamp.
Remove
the cover, flame arrestor screen, and gasket if one is used. Inspect the
air inlet screen, and if it is damaged or deformed, replace it. Submerge
the flame arrestor in a container of clean solvent. (Many can do the job,
but you’ll always be safe in selecting one recommended by your engine
manufacturer.) Let it soak long enough that any residue is loosened, after
which you can slosh the solvent around for a few seconds to remove the
particles. Once it looks clean, let the flame arrestor sit in the solvent
again for a few minutes.
Remove
the flame arrestor from the solvent, and let it drain. You can blow it
dry with compressed or canned air to speed things up. Once the flame arrestor
is dry, you can put it all back together. If the unit has a gasket, replace
it with a new one.
Is
there a way to test a thermostat out of the engine? N. R..
via e-mail
Yes.
The following method is quick and easy.
Pour
some tap water into a shallow container that can be heated. Place your
thermostat in the water, and suspend a thermometer in it so you can read
the temperature as the water is heated. Heat the water until the thermostat
starts to open while checking the water temperature on the thermometer.
This should coincide with the temperature value stamped on the thermostat.
If it has not started to open at this temperature, replace the thermostat.
If it
begins to open when it should, continue heating the water another 25°F
above the stamped temperature value, at which point it should be fully
open. If it is not, replace it. Now, allow the water to cool to 10°F
below the rated value. If the thermostat is not fully closed at this point,
you must replace it.
As a
thermostat is inexpensive, keep a spare or two onboard just in case you
have to do a quick switch.
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