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What
are the basics for getting a good bottom painting on a fiberglass boat?
B.H., via e-mail
There isn’t
a paint applicator I know who doesn’t live by the dictum that proper
results are 90 percent preparation and 10 percent application.
Whether
you’re doing this yourself or hiring someone, knowing some basic
tips will ensure a good job. If you’re going with the same paint
that was previously used, there should be no compatibility problem. However,
if you’ve chosen to switch, you will have to apply a conversion
coat first.
If the
existing paint is in fairly good shape, first make sure the surface is
clean and free of contaminants like loose paint and grease that will lead
to adhesion failure. Start by sanding with 80-grit paper, followed by
a thorough wipe-down with a solvent recommended by your paint manufacturer
to remove residue. Two coats of bottom paint should suffice, but make
sure the first coat is thoroughly dry before applying the second.
If your
bottom paint is in poor condition and needs to be removed, once again
sand with 80-grit, then clean the bottom of any residue with the recommended
solvent. As fiberglass is prone to osmotic blistering, the better bottom
painting systems supply a special protective coat that you should apply
to bare fiberglass before the bottom paint. Of course, if you discover
any blisters at or below the waterline, you must repair them before applying
any paint.
Make
sure to thoroughly stir any paint before applying it and throughout the
job, since bottom paint contains heavy materials that easily settle. Use
the paint full-strength—do not thin—and apply it with a wide
brush or a solvent-resistant roller with 5⁄16- or 3⁄8-inch
nap. You may want to apply an extra coat to areas such as the waterline
(including the transom area), keel, leading and trailing edges, and rudders,
where more wear tends to occur.
I
am fairly consistent about checking the specific gravity of all my batteries.
As I need my hydrometer at the ready, I would like to know if there is
some sort of holder on the market that allows easy access instead of going
to the tool box. A.N., via e-mail
I don’t
know of any holder on the market, but I made a handy tool rack out of
several pieces of PVC pipe, and you could easily adapt the design to hold
a hydrometer.
Make
sure the tube is long enough to protect the glass and rubber tip and that
the diameter allows the bulb to protrude from the top. Secure the pipe
to a nearby bulkhead with either a pair of screws or strips of hook-and-loop
fasteners.
Need
help with a maintenance problem? Write to Maintenance Q & A, Power
& Motoryacht, 260 Madison Ave., 8th Fl., New York, NY 10016. Fax:
(917) 256-2282. e-mail: ken_kreisler@primediamags.com.
No phone calls, please.
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