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• Part
1: Oil Cooler
• Part 2: Diesel Fuel Cleaning, Voltage Drop Test
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I
used a biocide to treat my diesel fuel but still wound up with a plugged
fuel filter. Any suggestions? C.S., via e-mail
During long periods
of fuel storage, the microorganisms that live and thrive at the water-fuel
interface can grow into long strings and clumps. While you were right
to treat your fuel with a biocide—I trust you checked with your
engine manufacturer before choosing a product—you may have forgotten
that once these microorganisms die, they settle to the bottom of the tank;
biocide kills them but does not eliminate their carcasses. In fact, killing
the bugs can worsen the problem by creating more bottom ooze that your
fuel inlet will eventually pick up. The result can be a plugged filter,
as it was in your case.
Repeatedly
changing your fuel filters may eventually solve the problem—at first
you may have to perform this kind of maintenance after each outing. However,
if the accumulation is large, you have two options: One, have your fuel
tanks cleaned with a portable filtering system. You should be able to
find a company that does this in the Yellow Pages under “fuel treatment.”
Once the tank is clean, maintain cleanliness with regular applications
of biocide, and keep an eye on your filters for a reoccurrence of the
problem.
The
other option is to install a fuel-polishing system on your boat that can
continuously recirculate and filter your fuel, whether your boat is underway
or at the dock. Some polishers rely on ultrafine filters, while others
use a centrifuge or coalescer. Several companies manufacture such units,
some of which are suitable for boats as small as 40 feet. Among them are
Walker Engineering’s AlgaeSep (818) 252-7788, www.walkerairsep.com;
Belgoes Filtration Systems (866) 235-4637, www.fuelpolishing.com;
and the Kaydon Filtration Group’s Guardian System (706) 884-3041,
www.cleanfuelinc.com. Prices
range from about $1,300 to more than $4,000, excluding installation.
What
is a voltage-drop test? A.V., via e-mail
A voltage-drop
test measures resistance, the opposition to the flow of electricity, which
can be caused by anything from normal wiring to a electrical malfunction.
Basically the test uses a voltmeter to compare voltage at the beginning
of a circuit to that at the end. If the meter shows no difference, there
is no voltage drop. The greater the difference, the higher the voltage
drop and therefore the more resistance in a circuit. Generally, voltage-drop
readings of one or more volts are considered unsatisfactory. A voltage-drop
test provides an excellent means of testing solenoids, battery cables,
and high-current electrical leads.
When
performing this type of test, always connect the voltmeter’s red
lead to the electrical source and the black lead to the electrical load.
Need
help with a maintenance problem? Write to Maintenance Q & A, Power
& Motoryacht, 260 Madison Ave., 8th Fl., New York, NY 10016.
Fax: (917) 256-2282. e-mail: ken_kreisler@primediamags.com. No phone calls,
please.
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