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How
do I service the sight bowl fuel filter on my tender’s 15-hp, two-stroke
outboard? L.B., via e-mail
First place
a small container under the filter to catch any residue. If the space
is too tight, put a clean rag under the filter. Unscrew the sight bowl
from the filter base, and discard the bowl seal. Remove the filter element
from the bowl, and clean the element with solvent. If possible, dry with
compressed air. If not, let the solvent evaporate in an open space and
wipe clean when dry. An element that does not come clean after several
solvent applications and wipings should be replaced. Install a new bowl
seal—check your engine manual for the correct one—into the
fuel bowl, and reinstall the filter into the bowl assembly on the filter
base. Since the seal and filter elements are inexpensive items, you may
want to keep a few spares in your toolbox. Before starting up your engine,
test the installation by squeezing the primer bulb and checking for leaks.
My
boat has an older pair of inboard gasoline engines, and I suspect one
of them is losing compression. How can I check this? D.E.,
via e-mail
Disconnect
the ignition system by removing the high-voltage lead from the coil to
the distributor. Remove all the spark plugs, and open the throttle all
the way. Thread your compression tester into the first spark plug hole,
crank the engine for a few seconds, and note the reading on the gauge.
(The tester will hold the reading until you press the release button.)
Do this for each cylinder.
Compare
your results against your engine manufacturer’s specifications,
which will include an acceptable difference between individual cylinders.
If two adjacent cylinders have similar low readings, the head gasket is
probably leaking between them. If one cylinder has a low reading, squirt
some oil into its spark plug hole and retest. If the subsequent reading
increases by more than a few pounds, the piston rings are probably worn.
If the reading doesn’t change, the problem is probably worn valve
guides.
I
have some fiberglass work to do over the winter layup. What are the inherent
problems with using epoxy in cold conditions? S.D., via e-mail
The ambient
temperature of the workspace is extremely important to the mixture’s
ability to cure and bond the right way. If the reaction is too slow, the
epoxy may harden but never achieve the physical properties it was designed
to reach. Moreover, the colder it gets, the thicker the epoxy becomes,
reducing its ability to flow out. In addition it will be difficult to
mix the resin and hardener correctly, as the material flowing through
the dispensing pumps and out of the containers will tend to stick to those
surfaces, preventing you from getting the proper mix ratio. The mixture
will be harder to apply, as it will stick to tools and be far stiffer
than at warmer temperatures. And finally, air bubbles may result during
mixing and stay in suspension, creating problems in clear-finish applications.
If you
have to do epoxy work during the cold-weather months, it is highly advisable
to rent a space heater for your work area. In addition, follow the recommendations
of your product’s manufacturer for cold weather application.
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