|
In the heart of the
Waitangi treaty grounds, where British explorers and native Maori made
peace in 1840, it sounded like warriors were preparing for battle. Through
the trees, in the direction of the bay where the 108-foot Askari
was anchored, I could hear deep male voices blotting out the gentle lapping
of the surf.
The dozen women in our
charter party followed Fraser Yachts Worldwide broker Allan Jouning—our
lone male companion and acting chief—over the grassy knoll. We snaked
behind him in a line as he inched respectfully toward the 30 or so bare-chested
Maori. The men and boys were in four lines, shortest to tallest, each
holding what appeared to be a kayak paddle with sharpened ends.
Amid the fierce faces,
one of the smaller boys focused curiously on those of us with blond hair.
I glanced from him toward Askari, rolling on the hook an easy swim
away, and thought about diving toward her, clothes and all. I heard a
snort, a shout, some hissing. The biggest Maori could have been sumo wrestlers,
and when they leaped forward and stretched their eyes open, I believed
they might actually eat me alive. They jabbed out their tongues and hollered
in challenging bursts. I assumed the phrases would loosely translate into:
“Kiss your boat goodbye, little lady—you’re toast.”
Such was my welcome
to the Bay of Islands, on the tip of New Zealand’s North Island.
Jouning and Askari’s captain, Lon Munsey, had arranged the
traditional greeting with the Maori well in advance, and it served as
a thrilling introduction to the Land of the Long White Cloud—a place
seeping with culture, adventure, and even luxury, but that most of us
know only as the backdrop for Oscar darlings Whale Rider and The
Lord of the Rings.
While the Bay of Islands
is a well-established tourist destination, it and the rest of New Zealand
are only beginning to develop in terms of yacht charter. The nation is
working to become the regional powerhouse for yacht refit and services
while allowing nearby islands to assume the role of charter destinations.
Lane Finley, executive director of New Zealand Marine Export Group, says
his country wants to be the “Fort Lauderdale” that supports
a “Caribbean” composed of Fiji, Tonga, and more. “It’s
a wonderful potential economy about to flower in the islands,” Finley
says, lamenting that so few luxury charter yachts call New Zealand home.
“We don’t have locally owned vessels that attract that clientele.”
After the week I spent
aboard Askari in the Bay of Islands, I thought the lack of charter
activity a real shame. The Auckland area of America’s Cup fame and
the South Island’s wine country of Marlborough may be better known,
but I found the Bay of Islands (even though it was flooded with rain during
my visit) great fun for hiking, cold-water diving, golfing, dining ashore,
and a cultural education. New Zealand’s landscape is as stunning
as it appears in the movies; there are first-class resorts for charter
guests wanting to extend their journey, and Askari has a style
and crew that fit perfectly into the scene.
Next
page > Part 2: The crew helps one another
in a way that tells you they genuinely enjoy what they’re doing.
> Page 1, 2, 3,
4
|