Part 3: Purtell says that under ideal conditions, this paint system’s lifespan can be “almost indefinite.”
Photo: Jerry Wyszatycki
Our final step was the
application of Trilux 33, an antifouling paint that Purtell explained
is replacing Interlux Trilux and Micron 33. It contains Biolux, a proprietary
slime-blocking additive that Purtell refers to as a “boosting biocide.”
Although it’s ablative (it wears away with age), it uses a slow-polishing
system that reduces the loss of paint film. Trilux 33 is also tin-free,
as are all EPA-approved paints. You should apply at least two coats; a
3⁄8-inch foam roller works best.
The spec sheet for Trilux
33 specifies quite a range in the recommended times between coats, and
the reason is temperature. I’ve worked on boats at both ends of the
East Coast, and in Maine I often applied bottom paint with temperatures
in the 40’s, while in South Florida it might be 95 degrees. In the
first case, you’re looking at around 20 hours before applying a second
coat, while in the second, four hours is all that is required. Needless
to say, reading the spec sheet on recoat times is highly recommended.
A final note about painting
props: Many yards don’t paint props because they believe the paint
won’t stick. Purtell says that if this application regimen is scrupulously
followed, the paint will stick. And, he says, even though the paint does
wear off the blades, it sticks to the hubs, which is important. However,
he cautions that too much paint can throw off balanced blades and result
in vibration.
Is all this worth it?
Purtell says that under ideal conditions, this paint system’s lifespan
can be “almost indefinite.” In fact, he says Interlux uses these
products on steel and aluminum megayachts and routinely gets ten years
of life out of them. So ignore the advice of Billy Rose—here’s
one place where it’s definitely worth investing your money on paint.
InterluxPhone:
(800) 468-7589. www.yachtpaint.com.
Craig Anderson is a freelance writer in Florida.
